In the final foothills of the Canton of Bern
Today’s journey starts through the last hamlets of the Thun district before delving into the countryside and picturesque villages of the Schwarzenburg district. This area is nestled between the winding waters of the Schwarzwasser to the east and the meanders of the Sengine to the west. This region holds a unique history, shaped by the sale of its lands in equal parts to the cantons of Fribourg and Bern by the Dukes of Savoy in the 15th century. Thus began the austere era of dual rule, a period that lasted until 1798, leaving its mark on this small, isolated territory often steeped in poverty, as neither Bern nor Fribourg were inclined to invest significantly in its development. It was only with the advent of the 1798 Swiss constitution that Bern was granted total annexation of the Schwarzenburg region, sealing its fate as a Bernese district.
This is a land of gentle hills, dotted with magnificent farms that wrap around the marl cliffs patiently carved by the Schwarzwasser River, forming a rather severe canyon. However, after overcoming this obstacle, fresh air revives on a vast plateau, with the Pre-Alps looming on the horizon. Here, nature reigns supreme, offering a majestic spectacle to those who take the time to stop and admire the raw beauty of this preserved landscape.
This is a very short stage. Indeed, many pilgrims travel directly from Bern to Schwarzenburg without stopping in Rüeggisberg. However, this makes for a very long and challenging stage with significant elevation changes. This choice, although daring, reflects the endurance and determination of the walkers, ready to face the challenges of the road to reach their destination.
We divided the course into several sections to make it easier to see. For each section, the maps show the course, the slopes found on the course, and the state of the route (paved or dirt roads). The courses were drawn on the « Wikilocs » platform. Today, it is no longer necessary to walk around with detailed maps in your pocket or bag. If you have a mobile phone or tablet, you can easily follow routes live.
For this stage, here is the link:
Difficulty level: The elevation changes (+159 meters/-277 meters) are moderate, but the stage is brief. The only significant difficulty here is climbing up from the Schwarzwasser canyon to the plateau. The descents, on the other hand, pose little challenge.
State of the Via Jacobi: As usual, the roads stand out by dominating the paths through the heart of nature.
- Paved roads:5.7 km
- Dirt roads:4.7 km
It’s clear that not all travelers are comfortable using GPS and navigating via smartphone, and there are still many areas without an internet connection. As a result, you find a book on Amazon that covers this journey.
If you only want to consult lodging of the stage, go directly to the bottom of the page.
Sometimes, for reasons of logistics or housing possibilities, these stages mix routes operated on different days, having passed several times on these routes. From then on, the skies, the rain, or the seasons can vary. But, generally this is not the case, and in fact this does not change the description of the course.
It is very difficult to specify with certainty the incline of the slopes, whatever the system you use.
For those seeking « true elevations » and enthusiasts of genuine altimetric challenges, carefully review the information on mileage at the beginning of the guide.
Section 1: In the Schwarzwasser Valley
Overview of the route’s challenges: This route presents no major challenges and is mostly downhill.
As you leave Rüeggisberg, the route passes in front of the church and through the cemetery…
…heading towards the old priory.
This priory was once a significant stop on the Way of St. James, though it is less so today. The ruins have been maintained and restored. On a national level, this site holds notable historical significance, showcasing the reach of Cluny into some of Europe’s most remote regions.
The foundation of St. Martin’s Church dates back to the late 11th century. At that time, Baron Lütold von Rümligen donated the church to the Abbey of Cluny to establish a monastery. It became the first significant Cluniac priory in the German-speaking part of Switzerland and the oldest established in Bernese territory. The church and its outbuildings (notably the cloister) were built in the architectural style of Cluny II. The monastic complex was impressive, with a three-nave church and transept that ended in five Romanesque apses, likely quite beautiful. The priory’s feudal, judicial, and ecclesiastical rights extended far and wide, including alpine pastures. A farmhouse still remains on the site. As Bern’s influence grew, it eventually incorporated the Cluniac priory into the chapter of St. Vincent of Bern. After the Reformation in 1541, the monastic buildings were dismantled, though remnants of the northern transept persisted, and the site served as a quarry for a long time.
The trail then leaves the cloister, passing by the corner of the farmhouse.
As soon as you depart from these remnants, nature awakens in all its splendor, at times wild and enchanting. The path winds through lush woods, weaving between ancient trees and dense, untamed bushes.
Further down, the path meets the stormy Grüenibach stream.
At the bottom of the descent, on ungainly wooden logs, the trail meets the cantonal road descending from Rüeggisberg.
This stretch of the journey is much less lively, following the road. But the penance is brief, and soon the Via Jacobi returns to a trail plunging into the wild depths to avoid a bend in the road.
The descent becomes steep, weaving through tall grass that forms a dark dome overhead.
At the dale’s base, the path crosses the Grüenibach stream before finding the calm of the road again.
The Via Jacobi continues along the road towards Helgisried, where large farms stand proudly, silent witnesses of an ancestral tradition. Here, every detail tells the story of a community deeply rooted in its heritage, with the occasional display of trophies won by the farm’s owner.
You are now 30 minutes from Wislisau, where you will encounter the Schwarzwasser River.
In Helgisried, at the turn of a majestic farm, the Via Jacobi takes a small road winding through the countryside towards the isolated hamlet of Matten.
Along a peaceful road meandering through green meadows, a bucolic tableau of Matten’s countryside is revealed.
Lower down, like a symphony of nature, the Via Jacobi leaves the paved ribbon to venture through a ballet of wild grasses towards the Schwarzenburgstrasse, the main artery of this rural landscape. In this scenic waltz, the trail heads towards the houses of Bühlstutz. The gentle hum of the cantonal road below accompanies their silhouette. Here are some autumn images draped in a fog of mystique.
The houses of Bühlstutz, like scattered pearls at the edge of civilization’s ribbon, emerge with touching simplicity against the surrounding nature. A school, likely gathering children from nearby hamlets, completes the picture.
Then, like a moving poem, the Via Jacobi, true to its capricious path, escapes once again, taking a lesser-trodden road, like a dancer twirling towards the heights where the hamlet of Rohrbach calls.
The ascent is demanding but brief, revealing both effort and reward in a single breath.
Today, the first rays of the sun kiss the hillsides. Above the cantonal road, the climb, steep as it is, unveils the raw beauty of this preserved landscape. The farms, oases of life in this wild setting, emerge like sentinels, occupying a space that seems confined.
The road climbs even higher along the farms, but the trail chooses to descend back to the plain, first on asphalt.
Then, through the meadows, a path slips through, gracefully crossing fences that punctuate its way, like gates to the unknown, barriers meant to contain the livestock’s tumult.
At Sagi, the path rejoins the cantonal road, allowing hikers to admire the rustic charm of the Schwarzenburgstrasse, near which stands a gem of a patrician farm.
The Grüenibach still murmurs its secrets, a natural melody in this enclosed valley brimming with life and mystery.
The road then quickly leads to Wislisau. Here, a true hidden gem of the valley is revealed: a restaurant bustling with locals, a true haven of conviviality amidst nature. The gentle melody of the river accompanies the conversations and clinking forks.
Here flows the Schwarzwasser, a fierce river dancing over the stones. The murmur of this wild river echoes in the sandstone canyon, amidst the beauty of nature.
Continuing its journey, the Via Jacobi crosses the Wislisaubrücke, which spans the river, and frolics into the wild, along the river.
From this bridge, a path merges into a forested area, a mix of deciduous and coniferous trees, as if to celebrate the gentleness of the world. The trees, a blend of leafy and needle-bearing varieties, form a protective canopy under which the trail winds. Sunlight filters through the foliage, creating plays of shadow and light that dance on the ground, adding a magical dimension to this walk, almost at the water’s edge.
Section 2: A steep climb before the gentle countryside
Overview of the route’s challenges: a steep hill before reaching the flat calm.
Then, as if by magic, the path leaves the river behind and rejoins the cantonal road, offering the hiker a breathtaking view of the surrounding terrain and the marl banks where the river leaps. The hills roll dramatically on the horizon, revealing the geological richness of the region and the perpetual dance of natural elements.
In this green haven, the Via Jacobi turns away from the cantonal road to cross the tranquil Lindebach stream, seemingly frozen in the eternal beauty of the Swiss landscape. Be careful here if you’re familiar with the Camino de Santiago’s shell markers in France. In Switzerland, the shell never indicates the direction. Only follow the Via Jacobi 4 signposts.
Then, like a tightrope walker on the thread of destiny, the path climbs steeply at first, an exhilarating challenge through groves and woods, where every step feels like a dance with nature. The incline is severe, reaching nearly 20% at the start, often supported by wooden logs to prevent slips. Every step, every breath, is a communion with the earth, a reminder of the raw power and wild beauty surrounding the walker.
As the ascent continues, the trees part to reveal a clearing bathed in light, like a reward for the effort given. Up here, almost at the hill’s peak, life seems suspended in perfect balance, where shadow and light compete to touch the enchanting landscapes. Tall grasses sway in the breeze, and wildflowers add bursts of color to this natural scene.
Higher up, as if irresistibly drawn, the Via Jacobi resumes its climb, challenging the steep slopes with unwavering determination. Each meter gained is a triumph over gravity, a tribute to the resilience and perseverance of the pilgrims who walked this path before you.
Through the seasons, the landscape transforms, shifting from shadow to light with infinite grace. In the depths of the canyon, darkness reigns supreme, while at the summit, the sun’s brilliant rays ignite the sky today. Every moment is a fleeting work of art, where nature plays with contrasts to create living masterpieces.
Upon reaching the hilltop, the Via Jacobi offers a breathtaking panorama. As far as the eye can see, meadows stretch out, bathed in golden light. In the distance, the hamlet of Granegg appears, where more than just cows are raised—a true oasis in the heart of this wild nature. Here, cultivated fields and pastures intertwine, forming a living patchwork that tells the stories of those who live and work there.
Along the small road crossing the plateau, life flourishes in all its splendor. Between the rare cornfields and the verdant meadows, farms stand like guardians of time, silent witnesses to the passing of life. The farms are numerous, each adding its unique touch to this harmonious landscape. Stone walls, old wooden facades, and tiled roofs whisper the tales of past and present generations.
And then, as if appearing out of nowhere, the farms of Henzischwand rise proudly, like jewels in the countryside’s crown. Surrounded by flowers and greenery, they celebrate the simple beauty of rural life, where livestock reigns supreme, and nature is queen. Flower-filled gardens, abundant orchards, and lush pastures compose a symphony of colors and scents, creating an idyllic setting for those lucky enough to reside there.
Following the well-trodden paths of pilgrims, a pastoral symphony unfolds, where nature intertwines its melodies with the peaceful life of the farms scattered along the road. The graceful dance of cows and goats, like playful deities, seems to orchestrate a charming ballet on the heights of Kühmoos, while the farms, like jewels set in the green fabric of the countryside, offer their serenity to the travelers.
With each step, the landscapes unfold with crystalline clarity, where the farms stand in orderly rows, testament to the harmony between humans and the land that sustains them. Here, no unsightly blemishes mar the horizon, where even dog droppings are absent, leaving behind a pristine purity that delights the senses and enchants the wandering soul.
Far from the artifices of the modern world, the countryside stretches in all its splendor, unfurling a carpet of greenery and cornfields. The dirt path, witness to the footsteps of those who have trodden these lands for centuries, welcomes the traveler with a warm embrace before the asphalt claims its turn.
Shortly after, a long dirt road stretches between meadows and cornfields, offering total immersion in nature. Each step kicks up a light golden dust that dances in the air, adding a touch of magic to this rural journey.
On the horizon, the Fribourg Alps loom majestically, signaling the approach of the French-speaking region of Switzerland. The peaks, sometimes snow-capped, add a note of grandeur to the landscape, while the path continues its gentle meandering across the plain.
The dirt route continues, winding through the landscape’s twists and turns, until it reaches paved road in the outskirts of Elisried. From here, you are a 45-minute walk from Schwarzenburg.
Here, a call to simplicity resonates, as a generous host opens the doors of his home to travelers, offering them a bed of soft straw. This is where the authentic charm of Swiss hospitality resides, wrapping the traveler in a warm embrace, far from the bustle of the modern world.
In this pastoral scene, where every element seems painted by the hand of an inspired artist, piles of cut wood stand along the road like living sculptures, silent witnesses to the daily labor of the inhabitants.
Section 3: Almost at the end of the Canton of Bern
Overview of the route’s challenges: the route is generally easy, with some challenges near Schönnentannen.
The route continues until reaching Schönnentannen, where travelers once found rest and food by the roadside. Today, the restaurant appears closed—who knows?
Yet, the Camino de Santiago reveals its capricious nature, urging the pilgrim to stray from well-worn paths to explore unfamiliar territories. This is where the magic of the journey lies: in the possibility of getting lost to find oneself, of wandering to discover deeper truths. Of course, the cantonal road continues straight to Schwarzenburg, just a short distance away. But the Camino prefers leading pilgrims away from easy paths, offering instead a grassy detour, slightly sloped. If you’d rather avoid the tall grass, at the level of the restaurant, take the wide dirt road below the main road. This path will lead you effortlessly to town.
For those who believe the Camino is unchanging and that detours or shortcuts should never be taken, follow the tricky little staircase instead.
This path climbs steeply through meadows to the top of the hill.
At the ridge’s summit, the world opens up, revealing Schwarzenburg in all its splendor, nestled in gentle hills like a precious gem in nature’s setting.
The path becomes an intimate companion, passing through a small wooded area, inviting the traveler to reconnect with nature and himself
In a clearing, the path blends into the soft grass like a promise of eternity.
When the ridge ends, the road reappears, winding through fields, guiding the pilgrim toward their final destination. At every step, the landscape transforms, offering a constantly changing scene. The rolling hills and shifting light create a living tableau, where every element tells its own story.
A little further down, you’ll find yourself just above Schwarzenburg, with no clear trail in sight. Keep walking confidently through the meadows, or descend into the forest. If you lose the path, simply follow the road—Schwarzenburg is just below.
Schwarzenburg is a small town with about 7,000 inhabitants and all necessary shops. There’s also a train station here. The town is filled with beautiful patrician houses.
In the very heart of the town, the Dorfbach stream winds through parts of the center, offering its soothing murmur to passersby. Along its banks stand elegant wooden houses, authentic witnesses of timeless charm.
Activity is concentrated around the small shopping streets near the train station. The castle, built at the end of the 16th century, sits quietly in a park outside of town.
Accommodation on Via Jacobi
- Pfadiheim Pöschen, Freiburgstrasse 98, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 20 64; Youth hostel, breakfast
- Mehrzweckanlage, Schwarzenburg; 031 732 01 00; Gîte, breakfast
- B&B Mäder, Katzenstyg 48, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 28 78; Guestroom, dinner, breakfast
- B&B Salzmann, Wartgässli 44, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 28 76/079 627 47 48; Guestroom, breakfast
- B&B Nydegger, Bernstrasse 14, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 15 77; Guestroom, breakfast
- B&B Christen, Zelgweg 34, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 16 45; Guestroom, breakfast
- B&B Schmied, Steinhausstrasse 21, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 05 47; Guestroom, breakfast
- B&B Rebetez, Unters Aebnit 9, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 26 83/079 624 43 34; Guestroom, breakfast
- B&B Leuenberger, Torhalten 1, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 29 75/079 829 95 91; Guestroom, breakfast
- Ausbildingzentrum, Kirchermatt 2, Schwarzenburg; 058 469 38 11; Hotel, dinner, breakfast
- Gasthof Bühl, Thunstrasse 1, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 01 38; Hotel**, dinner, breakfast
- Hôtel Restaurant Sonne, Dorfplatz 3, Schwarzenburg; 031 731 21 21; Hotel***, dinner, breakfast
There are no major difficulties in finding accommodation on this stage. Here, you’ve rejoined the main Via Jacobi 4 route, and the number of available lodgings increases accordingly. You are nearing the end of this stage in a town, with all necessary shops available. Along the route itself, there are no accommodations, but there is a restaurant near the Schwarzwasser. It’s still advisable to book your lodging in advance for peace of mind.