08: Biel to Le Landeron

Walk through the beautiful vineyards of Lake Biel

According to Schweiz Mobil, it is recommended to leave the Via Jura 80 at Biel and follow the picturesque « Three Lakes Trail, » which winds around the lakes of Biel, Murten, and Neuchâtel. However, even for Schweiz Mobil, there is no properly marked and official route to connect with the Via Jacobi 4. Thus, planners of the Camino de Santiago routes in Switzerland are no more specific. Scallop shell markers have been placed here and there to guide pilgrims, but it remains rather basic. Without proper guidance, any traveler aspiring to reach Geneva along this trail risks getting lost unless equipped with detailed information about the itinerary. This is why we have developed this guide, to help them avoid losing their way.

Today, a beautiful and easy stage awaits you, in the heart of the woods and vineyards that line Lake Biel. Once, a « pilgrim’s path, » mentioned as early as the 14th century, crossed these lands, linking Alsace and Germany to Santiago de Compostela via Payerne. A medieval scallop shell was discovered here, evidence of the pilgrims who once passed through. Some places are imbued with magic, and this is certainly one of them. Vineyards plunging into the sea exist in New Zealand; here, they cascade into a lake, offering the same thrilling sensation. UNESCO has often celebrated such sites, rare in Europe. Think of the Moselle vineyards or, in Switzerland, the Lavaux vineyards overlooking Lake Geneva. This vineyard, too, deserves to be listed among these gems, even purer than the others. No houses disrupt its tranquility, thanks to the Bernese people, fervent guardians of this pristine heritage. Applications have been submitted to UNESCO to classify monuments and sections of this stage. However, regardless of the outcome of these efforts, much of the vineyards, as well as Saint Peter’s Island, are considered landscapes of national importance.

The stage we present was completed in spring, with bare trees. It will be easy for you to add a bit more greenery to these landscapes by visiting at a more suitable time.

We divided the course into several sections to make it easier to see. For each section, the maps show the course, the slopes found on the course, and the state of the roads. The courses were drawn on the « Wikilocs » platform. Today, it is no longer necessary to walk around with detailed maps in your pocket or bag. If you have a mobile phone or tablet, you can easily follow routes live.

For this stage, here is the link:

https://fr.wikiloc.com/itineraires-randonnee/de-bienne-altstadt-au-landeron-par-la-via-jura-34826894

Difficulty level: The day’s elevation gains (+334 meters/-339 meters) are modest, with no significant difficulty to note. Certainly, the route is not perfectly flat and alternates between climbs and descents throughout the day, but in such a reasonable manner that it becomes enjoyable.

State of the Three Lakes Trail: Unfortunately, today, most of your journey will be on asphalt, but the scenery is so enchanting that it won’t diminish your pleasure:

  • Paved roads: 15.3 km
  • Dirt roads: 3.4 km

It’s clear that not all travelers are comfortable using GPS and navigating via smartphone, and there are still many areas without an internet connection. As a result, you find a book on Amazon that covers this journey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you only want to consult lodging of the stage, go directly to the bottom of the page.

 

 

 

 

Sometimes, for reasons of logistics or housing possibilities, these stages mix routes operated on different days, having passed several times on these routes. From then on, the skies, the rain, or the seasons can vary. But, generally this is not the case, and in fact this does not change the description of the course.

It is very difficult to specify with certainty the incline of the slopes, whatever the system you use.

For those seeking « true elevations » and enthusiasts of genuine altimetric challenges, carefully review the information on mileage at the beginning of the guide.

Section 1: Gentle rolling hills above the lake

Overview of the route’s challenges: One of the few slightly more demanding parts of the stage is the ascent to the Pavilion, but it’s short.

Regardless of where you spent the night, the best starting point is probably the train station. It’s often there that you’ll find the precious hiking trail markers, these guiding threads that lead you through diverse landscapes.

A simple passage under the railway quickly immerses you in the industrious atmosphere of the area, near one of the imposing administrative buildings of the famous Rolex company, a reminder of Swiss precision with every tick of the clock. 

Soon, the route takes you toward the hill, a gentle elevation that overlooks the town of Biel. This town, discreetly nestled at the foot of the hill before opening up to the lake’s waters, seems almost suspended between land and water. Its numerous winding canals extend the town toward the lake, creating a watery maze that only curious wanderers take the time to explore.

Continuing your journey, you pass under the train tracks again, as if completing an invisible loop, always heading toward the hill. If your steps brought you from the Old Town, you would have followed the main road, walking along its sidewalks, while the modern infrastructure quietly accompanies you.

The approach to La Neuveville is signaled, its name almost resonating like a promise. Four hours of walking before reaching this small town, which seems to wait at the end of the journey, like a hidden haven tucked away in the folds of time.

Here, at the city’s outskirts, the funicular to Macolin rises—a mythical place, perched atop the mountains, where Swiss athletes shape their dreams and train their bodies to conquer glory. This discreet but powerful funicular takes travelers away from the urban hustle and up to serene heights.

At the Rue des Alpes, near this slope-eating machine, the Three Lakes Trail leaves the city behind. It abandons the cobblestones to venture into a rugged, untamed landscape where rocks reign supreme. This trail, seemingly fleeing civilization, offers an immediate promise of escape and contrast. Each step feels like you are distancing yourself from the noise and concrete, entering a primitive world sculpted by time and the elements.

Modest but sturdy stone steps climb silently up the hill, their surfaces worn by the passage of generations. Between soft mosses and creeping ivy, nature reclaims its rights, almost stifling the city’s echoes behind you. Here, you become a simple, anonymous hiker in a vast landscape where the Jura mountains stretch out on the horizon, modest yet filled with mystery. You’ll walk at the foot of these ancient mountains made of limestone, marl, and schist, their structures folded and deformed under the pressure of millennia.

The geological history of the Jura dates back 250 million years, when the land was a vast, eroded plain submerged by a rising sea. Over 130 million years, this sea left its mineral imprints, layer by layer, like pages added to the silent history of the world. Then, the sea retreated, and the land, pushed up by the birth of the Alps, folded like silk under the hand of a giant. The limestone, composed of dead shells from eons past, was lifted to nearly 1,500 meters above sea level, offering today’s unique landscape, where time feels tangible with every step.  

After a series of winding steps, you arrive at a place called Pavillon. Here, the scene opens before you, both grand and simple. The pavilion sits on the hill, like a relic from a bygone era, reminiscent of an ancient column that has survived the ages. It watches over the valley below, silent and immobile, a witness to the passage of people, seasons, and storms. Faced with this view, it’s easy to understand why this spot bears its name. It’s not just a stop along the walk; it’s an invitation to contemplate the landscape.

From the Pavilion, the view stretches out over the town of Biel, which lies at its feet, with green parks and avenues intertwined, reaching the lake’s edge. There, by the water, traces of the 2002 National Exhibition can still be seen—a large-scale event that left behind a vibrant memory of a time when innovation and culture blended with Swiss landscapes. Today, these parks, peaceful, were once witnesses to crowds, new ideas, and ephemeral architecture that placed Biel in modern history.

From the same Pavilion, the path invites you to leave the stairs behind. It narrows, as if trying to keep its secret, and dives further into the forest that borders the lake. Beneath the canopy, between tall trunks, you catch glimpses of the small village of Vingelz below. Nestled between hills and shores, it seems almost asleep, sheltered from view, living to the gentle rhythm of water lapping against the banks.

In this forest, beech trees dominate, their slender and elegant stature lending the area a serene, almost solemn majesty, like a natural cathedral with branches stretching toward the sky. Some beeches grow in clusters, multiple trunks rising from the same shoot, while here and there, large white oaks and small pubescent oaks punctuate the landscape. Ivy clings to their bark, climbing relentlessly toward the light. On the Scots pines, these gangly trees, only a few tufts at the top remain, a testament to their struggle to continue existing, like survivors of harsher times.

Further along, the slope softens and the forest opens up. A clearing can be glimpsed beneath bare branches or perhaps branches simply waiting for spring to don their green cloak. Silence reigns here, broken only by the slight rustling of dead leaves underfoot—a calm where life, still asleep, is ready to burst forth at the first warmth of the days.

The path, now narrow and rocky, playfully winds along the hillside. The limestone seeps, revealing its veins like an open book on the earth’s geological history. Bands of rocks emerge here and there, evidence of the terrain’s changing nature, which seems to oscillate between the gentleness of the trees and the harshness of the stones.

Later, the trail gently descends, like a breath, to lead you back toward the lake. It reaches a fork where the Vingelz train station awaits, and on the other side, a choice: follow the lakeside or explore the small, sleepy villages along the water, where the train passes. Throughout this stage, the lake, ever-present, accompanies you like an old friend, always there, silent, watching over your walk.

Instead of heading toward the lake, the path continues its gentle descent through the undergrowth. The slope is light, almost imperceptible, and the atmosphere becomes more intimate, as if the forest wraps you in its coolness and silence.

Soon, around a bend, Vingelz reveals itself below, its ribbon of white houses stretched between the lake and the hill. Its rooftops peek timidly through the canopy, like a human mosaic in a sea of greenery.

The Three Lakes Trail then reaches the heights of the village, settling under the beeches that raise their columns towards the sky. Here, the path joins the Burgunderweg, the Burgundian Way, with signs reflecting the bilingualism of the region, in French and German, reminding you that the French-speaking border is only a few steps away. This territory, now German-speaking, was part of France before 1815, but nowadays, German resonates here as a matter of course.  

Vingelz, or Vigneules in French, is a village that stretches broadly, like a hand placed between the lake and the first slopes of the hillside. The houses here have a stately appearance, their elegant and solid facades testify to a certain prosperity, a discreet wealth nestled in the tranquil beauty of the region. 

The paved road crosses the village, splitting it in two like a lifeline, then escapes again to blend back into the surrounding countryside.

At the exit of Vingelz, a wide dirt road takes over under the imposing canopy of large trees. At the fork, your path remains at mid-height, skirting the lake below. Here, the mountain becomes steeper, almost threatening, while another path rises to cross the ridge. On the other side is Sonceboz, in the Bernese Jura, which you crossed the day before.

You are now at a place called Hüsli, an hour from Biel and three and a half hours from La Neuveville. This is where the Rebenweg, the Vineyard Way, begins. This same path is also called the Burgundian Way, a historical reminder that gives the landscapes a deeply historical hue.

The wide dirt road then stretches in a straight line under beeches, oaks, and pines. The path seems tamed, peaceful, cutting through an unchanging landscape where nature sometimes lets out a bit of water, seeping from the rocky flanks of the mountain like a whisper. Shortly after, the path crosses another fork that leads to the lake, towards the village of Alfermée, and further still, towards Tüscherz. Incidentally, there is also a variant that allows one to follow the lake, at least partially, for those who prefer to walk along the water, with the gentle sound of the waves in the background.

Section 2: Leaving the forest for the vineyards

Overview of the route’s challenges: The route presents no significant challenges.

The path continues, winding a little longer through the majestic forest. Sunlight filters through the leaves, casting shifting patterns on the ground. As the forest nears its end, tall spruces emerge, standing amidst beech and oak trees like dark giants. Their tops are so high that sometimes it’s impossible to spot their cones. If you can’t see them, just lower your gaze to the ground: the cones scattered there confirm they are indeed spruces, not firs. At the altitudes you’re navigating, these trees dominate the landscape, both in Switzerland and France, marking these lands as a natural signature.

As spring begins to settle in, some trees can still be identified by their dormant foliage. Beeches, for instance, don’t shed all their leaves in autumn. Many dead leaves persist on the lower branches, hanging like remnants of the past season. However, this won’t help you much in distinguishing them from hornbeams, which look quite similar. True hornbeams, beautiful as they are, are rare in both Switzerland and France. When they appear, they typically form shrubby groves that fill the undergrowth, a phenomenon observed across Europe. These groves are often hard to tell apart from hazel trees unless they bear hazelnuts in autumn.

The route then reveals a geological curiosity along the way: magnificent erratic granite boulders, imposing and solitary. Despite their massive size, these stones didn’t originate here in the Jura. They were transported from the Valais region, carried by the immense glaciers from the Rhône Valley. These boulders undertook a millennial journey, slowly gliding on ice until they finally settled here. An extraordinary voyage, wouldn’t you agree?

Eventually, the dirt path emerges from the forest and reconnects with a small road that gently descends into the vineyard. This is the Chemin des Vignes, a magical place where every curve seems to embrace the serenity of the landscape. Here, everything exudes calm—a perfect balance between humanity and nature.

The road descends softly, winding through the vineyards that overlook the village of Alfermée. The arrangement of the landscape is almost architectural in its precision. Small stone stairs link the terraced hills, creating a cascading landscape where every meter of earth seems thoughtfully cultivated.

Occasionally, a solitary erratic granite boulder rests among the vines like a silent beacon in this orderly world. It stands as a relic from a bygone era, reminding all who pass of the powerful natural forces that shaped this land.

From here, the view unfolds majestically over the Bay of Biel, offering a breathtaking panorama. The lake stretches out in all its splendor, its calm waters reflecting the surrounding mountains, as if nature itself had paused in a moment of tranquil perfection. .

The road then leaves the vineyards behind, venturing into a more austere landscape. It traverses a sort of barren steppe, where only scraggly pines and gnarled oaks manage to thrive. These trees seem to embrace harsh conditions, their twisted branches and knotted trunks telling a story of resilience in the face of poor soil and a dry climate. Here, nature feels raw, almost wild.

The path eventually leads to a large parking area, where a road climbs from Alfermée to the heights of the vineyard. Though functional, this spot marks a transition between two worlds: the village below and the elevated world of the vineyards.

You then arrive at Schützenhaus, near Tüscherz. The road ascends a hill, where a small chapel stands, simple and solitary, like a spiritual sentinel amid the vineyards. 

The setting here is truly sumptuous. Whether the chapel is Protestant or Catholic remains unknown, as it’s closed, mysterious, and impenetrable. However, you’re in Protestant territory, which might offer a clue. But ultimately, what matters is the serene beauty of this sacred place, perched above the landscape.

After admiring the chapel, the road descends back into the vineyard. All around, small concrete fountains, ingeniously connected, provide a discreet but vital water supply for the vines and the people who tend them.

Soon, the road overlooks the village of Tüscherz, now united with Alfermée. The winegrowers’ houses are magnificent, nestled closely together as if protecting themselves from winter’s cold or summer’s heat. Behind each house, a small, discreet garden completes this idyllic picture. This is a village where the warmth of the earth can still be felt, a wonderfully preserved place.

The road leading to the lake may seem like a tempting alternative, but the Three Lakes Trail stays true to its course, stubbornly rooted among the vineyards, as if it wishes to intoxicate you with this landscape, sculpted by human hands over centuries. Here, nature and agricultural labor are intertwined in perfect harmony. 

Further along, the road continues to meander through the vineyard, like a leisurely walker guided by the whisper of the wind in the vines. The path winds along, tracing gentle curves with the terrain, as if hesitating to leave this familiar scenery.

Suddenly, a wine cellar appears along the road, discreet yet full of promise. These havens of tradition are typically nestled closer to the lake, making this one an exception. Then, almost without warning, you leave the disciplined rows of vines behind for a moment.

The road once again escapes the vineyards, forging a path through a sparse grove. The tall pines, broad-canopied beeches, and small, twisted oaks seem to watch over this fleeting respite. Here, the trees serve as silent guardians of a secret territory, existing in a delicate balance between shadow and light.

But this shaded interlude is brief. Soon, the vineyards reappear as you approach the village of Tüscherz, spread above like a carefully organized green blanket. Everything here is measured and meticulously arranged: the houses are pushed lower into the folds of the landscape, as if the slopes were reserved exclusively for the precious vines, as valuable as green gold. On the horizon, St. Peter’s Island emerges in the distance, like a promise.

The descent toward the lake begins slowly and peacefully, amidst erratic boulders, remnants of a glacial era, silent witnesses to a time when nature shaped this landscape with a rough hand. As you descend, the presence of water becomes more palpable, closer.

At the base of the slope, near the place known as Rogetten, more than two hours of walking remain before reaching the end of this stage.

The road slopes up again slightly, returning to the vineyards and skimming past wine cellars where the constant activity of vintners can still be sensed. Here, the vines seem to thrive on calcareous moraines, geological remnants of long-gone glaciers. These same glaciers, millennia ago, deposited erratic boulders that can still be seen today as relics of another age.

Soon, the road overlooks the village of Weingreis. You might spot the occasional black kite, their dark silhouettes cutting against the sky, majestically soaring over the vineyards. These birds of prey are the sentinels of the landscape, gliding with imperious grace above their domain.

Shortly after, the road approaches the first houses of Twann. Gradually, St. Peter’s Island draws nearer, growing larger on the horizon, like a dream coming into focus.

Section 3: From one village to another, along the hillside, through the vineyards

Overview of the route’s challenges: a few gentle inclines.

The uniqueness of this stage lies in the fact that it never brings you down to the lake’s edge. Yet, the lake is omnipresent, visible from the heights from start to finish, offering a panoramic, almost aerial view that enhances the landscape. This mid-height, constant, and majestic view seems far more precious than simply walking along the shores. Here, the path overlooks the village of Twann, known as Douanne in French, as if hesitating to come too close, preferring to admire the lake from afar, in a subtly orchestrated play of distances.

Once again, the route offers the possibility to descend to the shores, like a discreet invitation to momentarily lose yourself in the calming proximity of the waters. But the Three Lakes Trail, faithful to its course, prefers to stay above, dominating the landscape with an almost nonchalant elegance.

The road winds around the village, meandering through the vineyards. The village then reveals itself as a harmonious picture: a compact place, homogenous, with its small houses huddled together, forming an inseparable whole. Every roof, every facade tells a story—of generations who have shaped this place with care, preserving its authenticity and simple beauty.

The « Chemin des Vignes » (Vineyard Path) intersects a road climbing up from the village, gradually ascending the slopes towards the mountain. It heads towards the Chasseral, that imposing summit of the Swiss Jura, guardian of the region, one of the highest peaks in the Bernese Jura.

The Three Lakes Trail however, descends slightly before veering right to cross the Twannbach, a stream that interrupts the calm of the descent with unexpected force.

The Twannbach is not the gentle stream one might imagine. It’s a wild, untamed torrent, tumbling over limestone rocks in an incessant tumult. It rushes through a dizzying canyon, plunging towards the village, like a well-kept secret of the landscape. Discovering such a striking natural spectacle, amid these peaceful vineyards, seems almost surreal, as if nature itself had inserted a fragment of wild chaos, reminding man of his humble place in the face of its grandeur.

From this vantage point, your gaze extends over the Bay of Biel, whose contours are drawn with unparalleled clarity. Educational panels scattered along the path reveal the secrets of the Bienne Lake vineyard. They explain that the vines, capricious and daring, thrive on slopes ranging from 30% to 70%, a fact confirmed by the view where every slope seems to harmoniously dance with gravity.

At this precise spot, the « Chemin des Vignes » twists with a slightly more daring ascent to circumvent a rocky outcrop, a challenge the landscape seems to accept with serenity and majesty. . 

Soon, the road plunges you back into the verdant world of the vineyard. The St Peter’s Island, tiny at first, gradually grows before your eyes, like a jewel emerging from the water.

In this blossoming vineyard, the Chasselas, known as Gutedel in German, and Pinot Noir, or Blauburgunder, stand as the dominant grape varieties, just as they prevail in the vineyards of French-speaking Switzerland. However, a range of white grape varieties, such as Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc, enriches the viticultural landscape. Red varieties, in contrast, are more discreet, playing a background role in this symphony of flavors.

The road below continues its sinuous dance through the vineyard. Ahead of you, the spire of the Ligerz temple rises like a beacon, guiding your steps with its distinctive profile.

The Three Lakes Trail, leaving the main road, then descends toward the church along a cobbled path—a route that transitions between the vineyard land and the sacred sanctuary.

Perched above the village of Ligerz, or Gléresse for French speakers, the temple, visible from afar in all its splendor, stands facing St Peter’s Island, as a silent witness to the harmony between the spiritual and the earthly.

In the Middle Ages, Ligerz emerged as a crucial crossroads on the Camino de Santiago, a sacred route attracting pilgrims from all over Europe. This site once hosted a modest chapel, later replaced by a 13th-century Gothic church. Though expanded over the centuries, the church still retains original elements, notably some ancient stained-glass windows that have withstood the passage of time. In front of the temple, the courtyard still shelters ancient graves, remnants of a past when Bern had not yet embraced the Lutheran confession.

Soon after, the Three Lakes Trail veers off onto a narrow path winding through the vineyards—the Pilgerweg, or Pilgrims’ Way—leading to Schafis.

A small funicular, the Vinifuni, transports hikers to the heights of Prêles, at the foot of the majestic Chasseral. From up there, the panoramas over the vineyards and Lake Biel offer a breathtaking spectacle.  

The paved road then descends toward the lake, continuing its route through the vineyards, with the ease of a gentle downhill stroll.

At the bottom of this descent, you reach Schafis, a hamlet just a stone’s throw from Ligerz and about an hour from La Neuveville. On the other side of the lake looms St Peter’s Island, which could be better described as a peninsula. It can be reached on foot from Erlach by crossing a long stretch of land bordered by imposing marshlands. This place is a true haven for birdwatchers, especially because Rousseau briefly stayed there during his exile in Switzerland. Although he was a citizen of Geneva, Rousseau spent much of his life in France, and that country still claims him today as one of its eminent philosophers, despite France’s assertion of him solely as a French thinker.

Section 4: At the end of the Canton of Bern

Overview of the route’s challenges: an easy route.

Starting from Schafis, a paved road known as the « Route du Vignoble » (Vineyard Road) winds through the vineyards toward La Neuveville. Here, the terrain has softened, trading steep slopes for more welcoming hills.

The road gradually draws closer to the wine-growing villages, where the houses stand with the elegance of old estates, adorned with barrels and wine cellars, bearing witness to a centuries-old viticultural tradition.

Soon, the road reaches a place known as Poudeille, where many of the houses, mostly vintners’ homes, reveal themselves with their large barrels and deep cellars.

A little further on, the road runs by the « Cave (cellar) de la Ville de Berne, » marking the entrance to La Neuveville. Here, French inscriptions become more common, but you are still in the Canton of Bern, where German is the dominant language, although many bilingual residents live here. In Biel/Bienne, a bilingual city as well, it can still be challenging to find French speakers in shops. In Switzerland, the French-speaking Swiss (Romands) remain a minority, often overlooked, their presence sometimes neglected

The center of La Neuveville is not immediately nearby. You arrive at Maupras, at the actual entrance of the town, far from the tourist bustle.

As you progress, the landscape becomes less spectacular, with the sweeping views over the lake slowly fading away. From now on, the route consists of a long walk through the residential areas in the northern part of La Neuveville.

Further along, the road brings you to the northern part of La Neuveville, an old neighborhood but one that is less frequented by tourists.

La Neuveville, now home to around 3,600 people, is a place where history still echoes in its cobblestone streets and ancient stones. The town’s origins date back to the 14th century, when the region, then under the jurisdiction of the Bishops of Basel, sought to establish a boundary with the House of Neuchâtel. In this context, the majestic Schlossberg Castle was built, still watching over the town from its slightly elevated position. The Bishops of Basel began constructing a fortified city, adorned with imposing towers and protective walls. Protestantism found a welcome home in La Neuveville during the Reformation, marking a significant chapter in its religious history. Later, tensions between the Bishops of Basel and their French neighbors led to La Neuveville’s incorporation into the Mont Terrible department, which encompassed much of the present-day Jura, as we previously explored. In 1815, with the Congress of Vienna, La Neuveville became part of the Canton of Bern, a status it retains today.

Descending two streets from the fountain in the northern suburb reveals the quintessential medieval charm of the city.

Though it no longer has its original fortifications, La Neuveville has preserved two iconic towers. The Red Tower, formerly the northern gate of the town, is distinguished by its recently restored spire. The other, the Rive Tower, stands at the southern entrance of the town, silently bearing witness to times long past.

The « Rue du Marché, » (Market Street), the vibrant artery at the heart of the town, is lined with houses whose facades occasionally display a baroque splendor. The fountains, statues, and open stream that winds through the cobblestones reflect the refined tastes of past generations. The two Banneret fountains, dating from the mid-16th century and sculpted by a talented citizen of Cressier (Neuchâtel), add a touch of nobility to this scene. The statues, representing warriors proudly poised on their pedestals, still guard the two entrances to the town, giving La Neuveville an aura akin to that of Murten and Bern, but on a smaller scale.

To continue your journey, simply head back to the northern district near the fountain and follow the road leading to Le Landeron. The road curves around a picturesque hill, dotted with more modern homes, creating an interesting contrast with the old-world charm of La Neuveville.

Section 5: From the Canton of Bern to the Canton of Neuchâtel

Overview of the route’s challenges: an easy route.

The road gently descends from the small hill to cross the Vaux stream, a natural border between the cantons of Bern and Neuchâtel. Here, the boundary seems to trace itself, marked by the soft murmur of the water. However, we won’t delve deeply into Neuchâtel’s history. Its tumultuous past, swaying between Burgundians, Prussians, and even under the shadow of Napoleon, warrants a more detailed exploration elsewhere. In 1815, at the Congress of Vienna, the Neuchâtelois, then subjects of the King of Prussia, were welcomed into the Swiss Confederation. Only after the 1848 revolution did the canton, becoming a republic, sever its ties with the Prussian monarchy to fully integrate into the Swiss fold. Thus, La Neuveville and Le Landeron, neighbors that followed divergent historical paths, offer a different story.

The ascent continues on the other side of the stream through a forested landscape, where majestic oaks, graceful birches, and towering beeches intermingle. The slope, though steep, is made easier by the natural beauty, where every tree seems to tell part of the region’s history. .

Once on a small plateau, the view opens up to vineyards stretching across the landscape in neatly ordered rows. These vines, living remnants of an age-old tradition, offer a soothing view and are a testament to an ancestral know-how in harmony with the land.

Unfortunately, the journey to Le Landeron loses some of its initial charm. The route, dominated by winding and monotonous roads, meanders through the elevated suburbs above the lake. While the first steps still allow glimpses of the picturesque vineyards, the rest of the journey often feels endless and repetitive, passing through uninspiring and characterless housing estates, like a mirror without a reflection.

The Three Lakes Trail gradually leaves behind the vineyards and heads toward the train station.

The road leads to an underpass that facilitates access to the station, a true transit hub for travelers.

Once at the station, you will descend to the more modern part of the small town, a functional but unspectacular area, where nothing really sparks wonder. It’s an ordinary space, designed for convenience, lacking charm or inspiration, like so many places that prioritize efficiency over aesthetics.

At the crossroads, St. Maurice Church stands tall. This marks the gateway to the old village, a true architectural gem that you’ll explore tomorrow. 

To give you a taste and encourage an early visit to the old village, here’s a bit of its history. The village, founded in the 14th century, was established near a marshland. The pivotal event for the small town occurred in 1449 when Le Landeron entered into a perpetual alliance with the city of Solothurn. This alliance sparked a fierce struggle between Bern and Solothurn, with Bern attempting to impose the Reformation on Le Landeron, while the residents, backed by Solothurn, vehemently resisted. This religious divide persisted until the 18th century when Neuchâtel ceded its principality to the King of Prussia. This historical period left an indelible mark: Le Landeron and the neighboring village of Cressier remained Catholic, in contrast to the Protestant character of the rest of the canton of Neuchâtel. The old town reveals itself in all its splendor, a true gem of the past, adorned with medieval gates, picturesque fountains, and a 15th-century town hall.

Accomodation on the Three Lakes trail

  • Hôtel Bären, Moos 36, Twann; 032 315 20 12; Hotel***, dinner, breakfast
  • Zum Alten Schweizer, 10 Dorfgasse, Twann; 032 315 11 61; Hotel, dinner, breakfast
  • B&B Maya Hirt, 3 Dorfgasse, Ligerz; 032 323 50 91; Guestroom, breakfast
  • Auberge de jeunesse, La Vigne, 7 Rte du Château, La Neuveville; 032 751 26 37; Gîte, dinner, breakfast
  • B&B La Chotte, Tirage 12, La Neuveville; 055 284 12 14; Guestroom, breakfast
  • B&B Elisabeth Horsch, Faubourg 19, La Neuveville; 032 751 57 03/078 617 58 13; Guestroom, breakfast
  • Hôtel garni Villa Carmen. 7 Av. de Collonges, La Neuveville; 032 751 23 69; Hotel, breakfast
  • B&B Lambelet, Faubourg 14, Le Landeron; 032 751 26 19/079 301 36 2155 282 35 86; Guestroom, breakfast
  • Hôtel Suisse, Rue St Maurice 13, Le Landeron; 032 751 24 12; Hotel, dinner, breakfast

The Three Lakes region remains a destination primarily favored by local tourists. As a result, accommodations are not abundant, except in internationally-oriented tourist towns like Murten, which remains the main focus. Elsewhere, lodging options are more discreet, with the exception of Airbnb listings, for which we do not have specific addresses. As for dining, you will find places to eat in Neuveville and Le Landeron. Be sure to reserve in advance.

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