Towards a jewel of the Roman Era seen from above
The route stretching from Murten (Morat in French) Morat, although not officially listed as part of the Via Jacobi of Compostela, poses no ambiguity for attentive walkers. Careful signposting guides the steps of those who wish to follow this path. It’s easy to understand the preference of the Friends of Compostela for the Via Jacobi 4, the main route crossing ancient Switzerland, linking Lake Konstanz to Geneva. Yet, for many pilgrims arriving from Germany or Eastern countries, the road first leads to Basel. From there, they follow the Via Jura 80 before branching off towards the Three Lakes Trail, which takes them to Morat. To then reconnect with the Via Jacobi 4 in Moudon, you must walk through Avenches and Payerne. Therefore, for clarity, we will maintain the name » Three Lakes Trail » for this segment connecting Morat to Moudon.
But what of the pilgrims who once sought refuge in Payerne? The traces of their journey seem lost in the maze of time. No historian can affirm with certainty the exact paths these travelers of faith took. Yet, the cathedral in Payerne, like the one in Einsiedeln, was a major pilgrimage site in Switzerland. In contrast, the majestic monastery of Romainmôtier in the Jura, though imposing, is not listed on any documented path to Compostela. It is, however, crossed by the Via Francigena, which leads from Franche-Comté to Rome. Thus, the Friends of Compostela in Switzerland had to find a way to guide these pilgrims, arriving in Morat, towards Payerne, even though no official Via Jacobi route serves this direction. They devised a route leading through the heights, first to Avenches and then to Payerne. This route, though marked, does not bear the sacred scallop shells of Compostela. However, there is an alternative: simply following the lake’s edge to reach Avenches. Why was this route not preferred? The mystery remains unsolved. Perhaps they wanted to offer pilgrims the breathtaking view of Aventicum, the ancient city lying at their feet, as they reach the Eastern Gate from the heights. But it is just as possible, by following the lakeside path, to arrive in Avenches and explore this historical site.
In any case, we will follow here the route suggested by the Friends of Compostela, while mentioning the lakeside variant in an additional stage. Each person is free to make their own choice, depending on the call of the road and the landscapes.
We divided the course into several sections to make it easier to see. For each section, the maps show the course, the slopes found on the course, and the state of the roads. The courses were drawn on the « Wikilocs » platform. Today, it is no longer necessary to walk around with detailed maps in your pocket or bag. If you have a mobile phone or tablet, you can easily follow routes live.
For this stage, here is the link:
https://fr.wikiloc.com/itineraires-randonnee/de-morat-a-avenches-par-les-hauts-99940505
Difficulty level: Today’s slopes (+112 meters/-75 meters) are minimal, and there are no particular difficulties to note.
State of the Three Lakes trial: Asphalt still prevails:
- Paved roads: 7.4 km
- Dirt roads: 5.1 km
It’s clear that not all travelers are comfortable using GPS and navigating via smartphone, and there are still many areas without an internet connection. As a result, you find a book on Amazon that covers this journey.
If you only want to consult lodging of the stage, go directly to the bottom of the page.
Sometimes, for reasons of logistics or housing possibilities, these stages mix routes operated on different days, having passed several times on these routes. From then on, the skies, the rain, or the seasons can vary. But, generally this is not the case, and in fact this does not change the description of the course.
It is very difficult to specify with certainty the incline of the slopes, whatever the system you use.
For those seeking « true elevations » and enthusiasts of genuine altimetric challenges, carefully review the information on mileage at the beginning of the guide.
Section 1: A walk almost along the lakeside
Overview of the route’s challenges: This route presents no difficulties whatsoever.
The Three Lakes trial, named for the quiet beauty it reveals with every step, gently awakens in Morat, below the citadel, where the Ryf district borders the lakeshore. At dawn, calm reigns supreme, as if the town still holds its breath before the hustle of tourists asleep in their hotels. It is a rare hour, one where the landscape still belongs to the early walkers.
The road gently slopes up, skirting the Ryf beneath the towering northern walls of the city. The slope is slight, almost imperceptible, allowing pilgrims to savor every stone, every fragment of the fortress that has watched over Morat for centuries. .
Along the way, the Morat Museum discreetly reveals itself, though it is steeped in dense history. Nestled in the old municipal mill since 1978, it bears witness to the stories etched into this land. This place guards the memory of the famous Battle of 1476, where Swiss troops repelled Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. The mill, a central feature of this museum, has not lost any of its grandeur: its majestic wheel still turns, as if to remind you that time never fully erases the remnants of the past.
Continuing along this road, rich with history, the imposing shadow of the French Church greets the walkers. This Gothic structure, dating from the late 15th century, has watched over those who tread these ancient cobblestones for centuries.
Upon reaching the summit of the Ryf, the road dips again, gently descending toward the city’s exit, following Lausanne Road. It’s an almost symbolic passage, like a final glance cast at this town steeped in history before embarking on the unknown of the next stage.
Below, the road passes through Meyriez, a peripheral district of Morat, where the houses begin to spread out, offering glimpses of the shimmering lake through the branches of the trees. The journey begins to stretch, while Morat gradually fades behind the walkers.
Caution is advised upon arriving at Meyriez, near the Old Manor, a key point where the route leaves the main road to slip downwards, running along the lakeshore through a hotel complex. This spot is one of Morat’s gems, a luxurious hotel with discreet elegance, in a style reminiscent of « Old English » architecture. It’s a place where refinement blends with history, a true haven of peace for travelers seeking comfort.
The route then passes through the vast gardens and outbuildings of this prestigious establishment, offering pilgrims a peaceful interlude in this verdant setting. Perfectly trimmed hedges, flowered paths, and old buildings with stones weathered by time create an almost surreal atmosphere, where history meets serenity.
After this foray into the manor’s secluded universe, a flat road now runs alongside the lake. However, despite its proximity, the lake remains inaccessible, hidden behind a row of sumptuous villas, whose gardens seem to extend to the reeds bordering the water. These residences, isolated in their opulence, bar the way to curious onlookers, preserving the absolute calm of the lakeshore.
The road changes character as it enters a deciduous forest. The trees form a natural tunnel of greenery, inviting contemplation. The asphalt gives way to a dirt path, wide and soft underfoot, urging one to slow down and absorb the tranquility of the surroundings.
Soon after, the path heads to the Obelisk of Meyriez. This column, though of questionable aesthetic value, embodies a somber memory. Erected by the Canton of Fribourg in 1798, it marks the spot where an ossuary containing the remains of Burgundian soldiers who fell during the Battle of Morat was demolished. Austere as it may be, it nonetheless reminds you of the violent clashes that scarred these otherwise peaceful lands .
At this stage of the journey, you will follow sections of routes shared with Via Jacobi 81, which links Morat to Fribourg. The two routes intersect, offering pilgrims the opportunity to lose themselves in the twists and turns of Swiss history and nature.
From this point, you embark on a long walk along a wide dirt road, winding through the heart of the Greng Point Forest. This vast wooded area, both dense and mysterious, seems timeless, like a sanctuary devoted to nature.
In this park, particular care has been taken to guide curious walkers, offering them names to put to the trees. Some were planted here as part of a botanical project, creating a true gallery of flora. The main protagonists of this setting are the beeches and oaks, towering giants whose trunks are intertwined with ivy climbing skyward. More discreetly, pines, linden trees, and yews slip in here and there, forming a mosaic of greenery. As for the small shrubs, they are crowded, overshadowed by the majesty of the larger trees.
This segment of the Three Lakes trail, though soothing, imposes its rules: in German-speaking Switzerland, dogs must remain on a leash, limiting their joyful romps. At times, the path opens onto clearings, where massive trunks, felled by human hands, rest by the roadside, silent witnesses to the oak’s dominance in this forest. The cut wood piles up in large stacks, awaiting its turn to be transformed.
At the edge of this forest, the road crosses the Dybach stream, a clear trickle of water winding its way through the trees, bringing a welcome touch of freshness.
Shortly after this encounter with the Dybach, the soft dirt gives way to asphalt as the path delves into the residential district of Unter Greng. Here, elegant villas stand, proud and graceful, some venturing to dip their foundations into the lake or the reeds that surround it. A palpable tranquility reigns in this area, where one imagines only the whispers of nature disturbing the silence.
If fatigue begins to set in, you have the option to head toward Avenches by following a lakeside path, an option we will describe in more detail in the next stage. However, for the more daring, the Three Lakes trail invites a climb to gain altitude and pass through Chandossel. An extra hour of walking, and a slight physical effort, but isn’t that a mere trifle for those in search of adventure? This segment also shares part of its route with Via Jacobi 81, a path that never really fades away here.
The Three Lakes trail continues toward the RN1, the cantonal road, skirting the railway tracks. This stretch, marked by the mechanical presence of the train, contrasts with the natural tranquility that has dominated until now.
A little further along, the route passes under the RN1 before climbing the road leading to Ober Greng Dorf. Here, nature begins to give way to a more residential atmosphere.
On the left, hidden within a residential estate of grand houses, lies a private castle, almost invisible from the road. All that can be seen are a few outbuildings, remnants of this manor built in 1785. This historic mansion has hosted various illustrious personalities, including Madame de Staël and Benjamin Constant. This corner of Switzerland, and particularly Morat, is among the wealthiest areas in the country, which perhaps explains the isolation and discretion of this castle.
As you climb the road running alongside the Dyrbach stream, all that remains is to observe the distant farms of Greng, rural silhouettes dotting the landscape. Their simplicity contrasts with the wealth of the surroundings, but they stand as testimony to another way of life, one more modest and authentic.
Ober Greng Dorf, the village you soon reach, is far from large. At first glance, it is clear that the local population differs greatly from that of Unter Greng or near the castle. Here, the atmosphere is decidedly more rural, with the village mainly inhabited by farmers.
Quickly, the road moves away from this small agricultural haven, once again getting lost in the countryside, where the horizons widen, and where the traveler rediscovers the calming breath of open spaces.
Section 2: In the hills above the lake
Overview of the route’s challenges: This route presents no major difficulties, with a few gentle slopes.
Shortly after, the road reaches a crossroads where the absence of a clear sign might confuse the more absent-minded. It is here that the Via Jacobi 81 veers left toward Courgevaux, while your route, the Three Lakes trail, continues toward Clavaleyres. Rest assured, as mentioned in the introduction, the route is well-marked, and the risk of getting lost is minimal.
Heading towards Clavaleyres, the road soon runs parallel to the A1 highway, this immense artery that traverses Switzerland from Zurich to Geneva. The contrast is striking: on one side, the rural calm; on the other, the ceaseless flow of modernity, symbolized by the vehicles rushing towards major cities.
The road then crosses the highway, leaving behind this ribbon of concrete to approach the village of Clavaleyres at a leisurely pace.
The road begins to climb, but the slope remains gentle, almost pleasant, as it leads to the cemetery, where silence reigns, offering a moment of unintended reflection for passing pilgrims.
Passing through Clavaleyres, a village whose peculiarity lies in its status as a Bernese enclave within the canton of Fribourg, you find yourself in a region where cantonal borders seem to blend and overlap. It is often difficult to know if you are walking in the canton of Fribourg, Bern, or even Vaud. This geographical quirk adds an unusual touch to the journey. The road then turns toward Chandossel, continuing its way through these lands of multiple identities.
Here, you can breathe deeply, taking in the vibrant and pure air that emanates from the vast agricultural expanses. Every step seems imbued with the simplicity and tranquility of the countryside.
At the village exit, the road opens onto a crossroads lacking clear signs. Although you know your route goes through Chandossel, it is not advisable to follow the direct paved road leading there. Indeed, the Friends of the Camino de Santiago recommend taking the left turn toward Unterer Hubel, a choice that is likely more picturesque and truer to the spirit of the path.
The slope becomes steeper, reaching nearly 10%, and the road passes near Unterer Hubel without entering it, preferring to follow its own course.
The road continues to climb, but gradually flattens until it reaches the Hubel Forest. Although the ascent was not particularly steep, the effort is rewarded with a breathtaking view of Lake Murten, and in the distance, the silhouette of the city taking shape at the edge of its waters. This panorama, with its contrasts of blue and green, offers a welcome visual break after the climb.
At the forest’s edge, the Three Lakes trail meets the Via Jacobi 81 back. The two routes then merge and progress together along a flat dirt road, skirting the vast Hubel Forest. The softer, more natural ground here invites a peaceful walk, far from the paved roads and the bustle of cars.
Here, the forest reveals its full diversity, blending spruces and broadleaves into a harmonious vegetal setting. Occasionally, through clearings, the view opens up to glimpses of Lake Murten, shimmering in the distance, and Vully rising majestically on the opposite side of the waters. These fleeting visions add a poetic touch to the walk, like natural paintings offered to the passerby.
Following the edge of the forest, the wide dirt path runs under Oberer Hubel. Here, unexpectedly, rows of vines punctuate the landscape. These are rare on this side of Lake Murten, as viticulture is usually reserved for Vully, the region on the opposite shore. This discreet viticultural presence seems almost anomalous, a curiosity in this primarily forested setting.
Shortly after, the path begins a steep descent along the forest’s edge. It crosses a tributary of the Chandon, a watercourse that shapes the region with numerous small meanders, linking valleys and hamlets.
Further along, the route reconnects with the road to Chandossel, which you had left behind at the exit of Clavaleyres, marking a modest return to civilization.
You are now in the canton of Fribourg, in the part where French is spoken. This region is a true tangle of cantons, languages, and even religions. It is this cultural patchwork that gives this land its unique charm, where you pass from one world to another within just a few kilometers.
Chandossel is a graceful hamlet, nestled in a bucolic landscape. Crossed from end to end by the Chandon and its many tributaries, it seems frozen in another time, peaceful and serene.
It is here that the routes diverge: Via Jacobi 81 continues toward Fribourg, while the Three Lakes trail heads towards Avenches, about an hour’s walk from here. A Compostela shell adorns the area, but it rather indicates the path toward Fribourg. It is easy to get confused, but don’t linger too long, as Avenches is your destination.
The canton of Fribourg is strongly marked by Catholic tradition, and crosses appear at nearly every crossroads, attesting to this omnipresent spiritual presence.
Section 3: A Roman City in the Helvetian countryside
Overview of the route’s challenges: The route presents no significant difficulties, except before reaching Villarepos.
The road follows the winding course of a stream, tracing its peaceful banks until it moves away from the village. Here, nature takes over, with the murmur of water blending into the surrounding calm.
Then, suddenly, the slope becomes steeper. With inclines exceeding 10%, the road climbs vigorously through the verdant meadows covering the hillside. Each step demands extra effort, but the reward is near.
At the top of this ascent, the road winds its way to the first houses of Villarepos. The village appears as a haven of tranquility, with homes scattered across the landscape.
The village is surprisingly large, stretching over a considerable distance. It takes more than fifteen minutes to walk across, gradually revealing its secrets and hidden corners. At the heart of Villarepos, the road turns toward Donatyre and the Eastern Gate, your next destination.
After passing a modern-looking church, the street continues seemingly endlessly, as if it never intends to stop. Throughout the journey, the village stretches on, but don’t expect to find a bakery or shop here. Time seems to have frozen daily life in a stripped-back simplicity.
However, crosses are plentiful, lining the road as symbols of an ancient faith deeply rooted in this land.
Eventually, the road leaves the village and heads toward Donatyre, but the Three Lakes trial takes a different path. Here, you temporarily leave the canton of Fribourg to enter the canton of Vaud. This is a fleeting passage, as you will re-enter the canton of Fribourg shortly after Avenches. The geopolitics of this region, complex and intertwined, remind you how quickly borders can disappear and reappear.
The Three Lakes trial continues toward the Eastern Gate, with the city of Avenches gradually unfolding in the vast Broye plain. This gradual descent seems like a prelude to the history that awaits you, as if the landscape itself is preparing you for an encounter with the past.
Here, you have the choice between a dirt path or a paved road, but in either case, the slope becomes steeper, leading directly to the Eastern Gate. At this precise moment, the view opens up to an impressive panorama, offering a sublime perspective of Lake Murten and the hills of Vully rising on the opposite shore. Was it this striking view that prompted the organizers to trace the route here, or was it the majesty of the Eastern Gate itself that justifies this route?
According to historical accounts, the Eastern Gate was built under Emperor Vespasian’s reign, in the early 70s CE. Dominating the landscape, it offered an unobstructed view of the vast Roman plain. As you walk through this place, you can still imagine the extent of the Roman territory, framed by the walls that once outlined the contours of the ancient city.
Over the centuries, the Gate was destroyed, leaving only ruins buried underground. It was thanks to the archaeologist Louis Bosset in the 19th century that the gate was reconstructed from the fragments found and plans drawn from similar sites. Today, the illusion is almost perfect; the arches, protruding towers, and ramparts rise again, and an unsuspecting observer might believe they are standing before the original.
A small paved road winds down from the Eastern Gate, first descending toward the ruins of the ancient city, then toward the modern city of Avenches. Gazing at this distance, you can imagine the Romans of that time, hauling amphoras and other goods toward the fortified gate, with an effort comparable to that of the Villarepos resident who once made a long detour to fetch bread from the village bakery.
Completed and magnified by the 3rd century CE, the Roman theater of Aventicum could accommodate up to 10,000 spectators, an impressive number that attests to the grandeur of the structure. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theater fell into obscurity, its precious stones becoming a quarry for numerous later constructions. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that the site’s rediscovery led to restoration work that lasted 25 years. The last notable interventions took place at the end of the last century. The theater follows the classic plan of Roman theaters, with sandstone bleachers, an orchestra pit, and stage area, but the presence of a sacred fountain and its alignment with the Cigognier sanctuary suggest political and religious uses as well. The main structure is made of yellow limestone, adding a majestic touch to this ancient edifice.
Below the theater stands the temple, with its monumental column known as Le Cigognier, named after a stork’s nest first mentioned in a 17th-century engraving. This column appears to be the only original piece still standing, with the others having disappeared over time. During excavations, a golden bust of Emperor Marcus Aurelius was discovered in the sanctuary’s sewers, reinforcing the idea that this building was dedicated to the imperial cult. The temple’s construction dates back to 98 CE, under Emperor Trajan. Partially reconstructed since the 18th century, the temple is remarkable for its porticos, flooring, and Corinthian capitals, testifying to the monumental and sacred momentum of the time.
The Roman city of Aventicum emerged around the turn of the era, with an estimated population of 20,000 inhabitants. The foundation of Aventicum may have resulted from the forced return of the Helvetii after their failed migration attempt against the Romans. Thus, Aventicum became the capital of the Helvetii. In 71 CE, Emperor Vespasian elevated the city to the status of a colony, marking the beginning of the construction of its walls, theater, amphitheater, Cigognier sanctuary, as well as baths and a forum, of which only scattered traces remain today. Avenches enjoyed a long period of prosperity until the early 3rd century, before its history faded into obscurity, with the city becoming a quarry for sandstone and limestone for later constructions.
The route then moves away from the archaeological site, leaving behind stone blocks whose placement remains uncertain, crossing the RN1 and climbing toward the city. The dead-end Marc-Aurèle Street, a name that seems to have been chosen with little difficulty, is proof of the emperor’s omnipresent influence in this region.
The arenas are located just above, dominated by the fortified tower built in the 11th century by the Bishop of Lausanne. This tower, now housing the Roman museum, is a testament to the site’s strategic and historical importance.
The amphitheater, of distinctly Roman architecture, was built in two stages. The first foundations, made of yellow limestone rubble, were laid in the early 2nd century to accommodate about 9,000 spectators. Under Emperor Marcus Aurelius, the structure was expanded at the end of the century, increasing its capacity to 14,000 seats. Like its counterparts in Octodurus (Martigny) and Augusta Raurica (Basel), this amphitheater reflects the Roman architectural genius.
Today, the amphitheater no longer hosts gladiators or lions but rather renowned artists during an open-air opera or rock festival. With additional metal bleachers, it can accommodate up to 8,000 spectators, a modest number compared to the 22,000 people who flood the Verona arenas each year for their opera festival. Avenches, a small town of 4,100 inhabitants, spreads out on an eastern hill, crossed by a charming and lively main street.
The site around the castle and its keep is remarkable, with its towers and inner courtyards. It currently houses various spaces such as offices, classrooms, a theater, an art gallery, and a library. The administrative and penitentiary functions have disappeared, making way for a dynamic cultural life.
Little remains of the original medieval castle, except for a square tower and the Bishop’s Tower, located near the amphitheater. In the 16th century, the castle, which had become the residence of Bernese bailiffs, underwent a complete transformation, adopting a Renaissance style. You can admire the beautiful Renaissance façade, adorned with a richly decorated protruding staircase tower.
In the canton of Vaud, where Protestantism dominates, the Reformed temple stands majestically on a charming square in the heart of the city. This Baroque temple, built in the early 17th century, rests on the remains of a Romanesque chapel from the 11th century, of which an apse and bell tower remain.
You can choose to arrive in Avenches by taking the lake route from Morat. Some walkers, finding the day’s journey a bit short, may choose to extend their journey to Payerne. However, it should be noted that the route between Morat and Payerne stretches for nearly 30 kilometers. Each person will choose based on their desires and energy!
Accommodation on the Three Lakes trail
- Auberge de la Croix Blanche, Route de Donatyre 22, Villarepos; 026 675 30 75; Hotel***, dinner, breakfast
- Auberge de jeunesse, Rue du Lavoir 5, Avenches; 026 675 26 66; Youth hostelm breakfast.
- B&B Les Helvètes, Rue des Helvètes 3, Avenches; 078 602 85 95; Guestroom, breakfast
- Swiss Hôtel La Couronne, Rue Centrale 20, Avenches; 026 675 54 14; Hotel***, dinner, breakfast
The Three Lakes region remains primarily popular with local tourists. As a result, accommodations are not abundant, except in cities with international tourism appeal, such as Murten, which remains the primary choice. Elsewhere, lodging options are more limited, with the exception of Airbnb rentals, for which we do not have addresses. There is not much available before reaching Avenches, where all amenities are found. It is essential to book well in advance.