An Incredible collection of Bernese farms
Today’s stage offers a stunning immersion into the heart of the Bernese countryside, where vast farms proudly stand amidst majestic forests stretching from Bern to the southern reaches of the canton, towards the Bernese Alps. Several times along the way, you’ll be treated to views of these snow-capped peaks, which bestow upon Switzerland its unique grandeur. To fully appreciate this spectacle, it’s best to undertake this stage in good weather, though the Swiss climate isn’t always cooperative. However, even if the mountains remain shrouded in clouds, the journey still impresses with the grandeur of the farms and the beauty of the beech and spruce forests that dot the region. Do not be fooled by the idyllic setting though—this stage is far from easy. The route features significant elevation changes at several points, making the walk quite demanding. It’s worth noting that the trail has been slightly modified in recent years, but these minor adjustments do nothing to detract from the stage’s enchanting charm.
After exploring Bern, you’ll leave the usual tourist paths to discover a less-traveled part of the route, following the banks of the Aar River before embarking on a rollercoaster-like journey through the surrounding countryside of the capital. From hills to valleys, you will eventually reach Rüeggisberg. It is precisely here that the variant of the Via Jacobi coming from Luzern and Bern merges with the branch that has passed through Central Switzerland and Interlaken. From this point on, a single Via Jacobi 4 will guide you all the way to Geneva, at the far end of Switzerland.
We divided the course into several sections to make it easier to see. For each section, the maps show the course, the slopes found on the course, and the state of the route (paved or dirt). The courses were drawn on the « Wikilocs » platform. Today, it is no longer necessary to walk around with detailed maps in your pocket or bag. If you have a mobile phone or tablet, you can easily follow routes live.
For this stage, here is the link:
Difficulty level: This stage stands out for its particularly challenging terrain, marked by significant elevation gains (+833 meters/-457 meters). After a peaceful stroll along the Aar, the trail suddenly climbs steeply to the heights of the Gurten hill, with a steep climb followed by a dramatic descent into Kehrsatz. There’s hardly time to catch your breath before another ascent begins, this time through the woods, passing by Kühlewil, the retirement center for the elderly in the canton of Bern. The rest of the route consists of a series of ascents and descents, crossing dale after dale. Fortunately, though the inclines are frequent, they are generally manageable, rarely exceeding a 15% gradient.
State of the Via Jacobi: In this stage, forest paths dominate over paved roads, offering numerous woodland passages:
- Paved roads: 10.7 km
- Dirt roads: 12.3 km
It’s clear that not all travelers are comfortable using GPS and navigating via smartphone, and there are still many areas without an internet connection. As a result, you find a book on Amazon that covers this journey.
If you only want to consult lodging of the stage, go directly to the bottom of the page.
Sometimes, for reasons of logistics or housing possibilities, these stages mix routes operated on different days, having passed several times on these routes. From then on, the skies, the rain, or the seasons can vary. But, generally this is not the case, and in fact this does not change the description of the course.
It is very difficult to specify with certainty the incline of the slopes, whatever the system you use.
For those seeking « true elevations » and enthusiasts of genuine altimetric challenges, carefully review the information on mileage at the beginning of the guide.
Section 1: Along the Aar River
Overview of the route’s challenges: The route presents no difficulties.
Starting from the heart of Bern, near the bustling train station, you move up the main street of the old town, heading straight toward the Federal Palace.
The Federal Palace, while central to Swiss democracy, is not a building one would describe as beautiful. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, it rises with austere solemnity, carved from rather dull sandstone. This monumental building serves as the nerve center of the Swiss legislative chambers and houses the Federal Council, where the seven Federal Councillors and the President of the Confederation convene. Until 2003, the Federal Square was merely a parking lot. Today, it has transformed into a vibrant space, animated by a joyful market of vegetables, fruits, and flowers, held twice a week.
A little further beyond the Federal Palace stands the Casino, opened in 1909 as a social gathering place for the city and the Bern region. The Casino is an elegant fusion of culture and leisure, making it an ideal venue for all kinds of events. It houses restaurants, workspaces, and rooms of various sizes, including concert halls. In addition to classical music, the Casino hosts cabaret performances, as well as more modern and popular music events.
The Via Jacobi then leaves the old town, crossing the Aar River on the Kirchenfeld Bridge, considered one of the masterpieces of Swiss civil engineering. This bridge links Casinoplatz in Bern’s old town to Helvetiaplatz in the Kirchenfeld district. This work of art was built between 1881 and 1883 by a Bernese metal construction company.
The river flows majestically beneath the bridge.
As you cross the bridge, to your right stands the Federal Palace, overlooking the river, before arriving at Helvetiaplatz.
At Helvetiaplatz, you will find the buildings of the Bern Historical Museum, along with other cultural institutions hosting a media library, the Swiss Alpine Museum, and various exhibition spaces. The World Telegraph Monument dominates the square with its design, location, and dimensions. Equipped with a fountain, it commemorates this association founded at the end of the 19th century. On a monumental base between two basins stands a group of bronze figures, divided into thematic units intended to represent the « souls of nations. » A plaque bears the names of the 128 member states.
The Bern Historical Museum, a true guardian of Bern’s memories, houses a vast and eclectic collection that bears witness to human evolution across the ages. From mystical relics of the Stone Age to the funerary artifacts of ancient Egyptians, each exhibited object tells a story, weaving a palpable link between the past and the present. Here, within these walls, visitors are invited to travel through time, discovering pieces that, over 2,400 years, have crossed continents to find their place in this sanctuary of Swiss cultural history.
Next to the Historical Museum stands the Einstein Museum, a tribute to the mind of the man who, upon arriving in Switzerland in 1902, found refuge in the depths of the Patent Office. It was here, in this serene and rigorous city, that Albert Einstein developed his famous theory of relativity between 1902 and 1905. It is here that he reshaped the boundaries of the universe, forever revolutionizing our understanding of space and time.
From Helvetiaplatz, the Via Jacobi winds down through narrow, steep streets, leading inexorably toward the calm waters of the river. The path twists and, at its end, opens onto Schwellenmattstrasse, near the majestic Dalmazibrücke, a bridge seemingly suspended between sky and earth.
Proudly overlooking the city like a sovereign watching over its kingdom, the Federal Palace stands atop the hill, dominating the landscape. Below, the Via Jacobi stretches along Dalmaziquai, obediently following the serene and unperturbed meanders of the river.
The river flows peacefully, passing from one bridge to another.
From time to time, the Via Jacobi gently pulls away from the riverbank, as if to take a step back …
…only to return and brush against the shore once more, reuniting with its liquid companion.
Farther along, after a graceful curve, the Via Jacobi reaches Schönausteg, a discreet yet significant passage, marking a new chapter in this historical and cultural walk.
On this side of the river lies the Tierpark. With around 200 different animal species, the zoo nestled in the Dählhölzli Forest and directly along the Aar offers a refreshing experience for both young and old. It is also here that the Via Jacobi crosses to the other side of the river.
You will often see people swimming in the river, as the clear water initially appears calm.
This area is a paradise for joggers. Many Bernese residents stroll along the beautiful promenade.
Across the river, the zoo catches your eye.
Farther on, the route arrives at Eichholz Beach.
Here, swimmers are warned that diving into the river can be perilous—a sport best reserved for strong swimmers.
The Via Jacobi crosses the park…
…to slope up, with a slightly steeper incline, the streets of Eichholz.
Section 2: Demanding ups and downs on the Gurten Hill
Overview of the route’s challenges: Steep inclines both uphill and downhill.
At the end of Eichholz, the route, like Ariadne’s thread, leads you inexorably to Wabern, one of Bern’s vibrant and densely populated suburbs, home to around 8,000 people. Wabern is not merely a suburb but serves as the gateway to the Gurten, the iconic mountain that watches over Bern like a benevolent guardian, linked to the town by a funicular that climbs with the patience of an old friend. Rising to 864 meters, the Gurten is not just a mountain, but a cherished excursion spot for the people of Bern, accessible either by the funicular or on foot for those who prefer the contemplative slowness of a walk. At the top, it is said that the view stretches far, offering a sweeping vista of the majestic Alps, the city sprawled below like a lounging cat, and the entire Bernese agglomeration, presented like a complex and intricate tapestry. This is a place where the air is cooler, where people take time to breathe, observe, and soak in their surroundings.
In 1977, the Gurten Festival was born in this almost sacred atmosphere. It began as a modest international folk gathering but has since evolved into one of Switzerland’s most popular outdoor music events. Every July, tens of thousands of music lovers gather on the mountain, with the festival lighting up the Gurten like a phoenix, warming hearts and transforming the mountain into a vibrant stage, where music resonates deeply within the souls of attendees.
The road, like a living artery, crosses the lively city, where every corner whispers stories of intertwined lives and exchanged smiles under the benevolent gaze of the surrounding mountains.
Gradually, the road approaches the funicular that ascends the Gurten, climbing like a noble, ancient elevator of memory, scaling steep slopes to offer passengers breathtaking views, where each turn reveals a new picture, a fresh perspective on the city that seems to fade away below.
Here, the direction leads you to Kehrsatz, a peaceful town about an hour’s walk away.
From the funicular station, the road stands imperious, and the slope quickly becomes severe, challenging hikers to double their efforts to reach the mountain.
As you climb this steep road, a panoramic view unfolds, revealing Bern in all its splendor. The Federal Palace, a symbol of Swiss democracy, stands proudly, while the cathedral, with its soaring spires, seems to reach for the sky. The landscape, like a living painting, spreads out beneath you, offering a well-earned reward for those who dare to face the slopes of the Gurten.
The slope gradually intensifies, transforming the route into a more arduous challenge as the asphalt gives way to dirt trails in the forest. With each step, fine dust rises, dancing in the beams of light filtering through the leafy canopy.
Soon after, a well-deserved break awaits walkers on a small plateau, where a solitary farm, almost forgotten by time, stands amidst nature. It is like a sentinel of a bygone rural life, surrounded by the gentle whispers of the wind in the tall grass.
But this quiet moment is brief, as the road resumes its steep ascent, crossing a vast pasture that seems to blend into the edge of deep forests, where the shadow of the trees creates a striking contrast with the sunlit grass.
But this quiet moment is brief, as the road resumes its steep ascent, crossing a vast pasture that seems to blend into the edge of deep forests, where the shadow of the trees creates a striking contrast with the sunlit grass.
And there, below, Bern sprawls in all its glory, its rooftops and steeples standing out against the horizon, embracing the city in a golden light.
On the steep slope of a wide dirt road, majestic bison—these peaceful giants—graze quietly in a verdant pasture, clinging to the hillside as if the earth itself held them in place with an invisible force.
The path, a faithful companion to the walker, soon reaches the hill’s summit, where the farms of Rossacher stand solid and timeless, observing the world below, like guardians of this ageless landscape.
Here, the dirt road once again gives way to a more intimate trail, winding through meadows before dipping into the forest, a haven of tranquility where nature expresses itself with disarming simplicity.
This path, skirting the woods, continually oscillates between trees and fields, casting its gaze upon the majestic Rossacher farms, which, like pearls, dot the landscape below.
Further along, as the path begins its descent, it humbly crosses the course of the Gurtedorfbach stream, which quietly weaves its way among the imposing stones—silent witnesses to the passage of time.
Then, the slope hardens, and the path plunges decisively toward Kehrsatz.
The familiar, rough dirt trail gives way to smooth, impersonal asphalt at Unterguntern, where the houses seem to cling desperately to the steep hillsides, as though fearing they might slide into the abyss below.
The horizon extends, revealing the imposing giants of the Bernese Alps in all their majesty—those eternal guardians that captivate and draw the eyes of visitors to Interlaken and its surroundings. While the Jungfrau stands proudly, crowned by its famous train, the Eiger and Mönch command equal admiration with their formidable North faces. A little farther back, the Finsteraarhorn, the highest of them all, rises in majestic solitude.
And the road continues its descent, ever steeper.
Your joints protest under the strain of the unforgiving slope, but an unexpected pleasure awaits as the path finally veers away from the road, taking a grueling shortcut that skillfully bypasses a sharp bend in the road.
The small ramp dives sharply toward the plain below, with a gradient of more than 30%. The village children, carefree and joyful, speed down on their scooters, but the return climb is no easy task. As adults, they are molded by these slopes, becoming accomplished athletes, forged by the effort.
At the foot of the descent, the center of Kehrsatz (population 4,500) stretches out, welcoming in the plain. Yet the Via Jacobi bypasses it, preferring to weave near noble wooden houses, guardians of tradition and time.
Section 3: Through the rest center of Kühlewil
Overview of the route’s challenges: This is a highly rugged route, with severe climbs at times.
From here, a truly formidable section of the journey begins, one that should not be taken lightly. With approximately 270 meters of elevation gain spread over 4 kilometers, this stretch towards Englisberg will test the endurance of even the most determined. The terrain ascends steeply, as if trying to reach the sky, and each step feels like a battle against gravity.
The road refuses to relent, forcing you to focus on the uphill challenge ahead, with the summit still hidden from view.
Further along, the Via Jacobi leaves the main road, detouring through the village of Tannacker. The slope, already demanding, becomes even steeper, as if the road itself seeks to test the perseverance of its pilgrims.
As the elevation increases, vehicles are limited to 20 km/h, but for the weary walker, progress is measured much more slowly, in hard-won seconds with each step.
Finally, at the top of this formidable ascent, the Via Jacobi rejoins the main road, in a neighborhood where newly built, pristine houses stand as a stark contrast to the grueling effort of the climb.
Briefly following this road, the route ventures onto a dead-end lane, as if inviting you to leave civilization behind and immerse yourself in nature once more.
A backward glance reveals houses clinging stubbornly to the hillside, a reminder of the sinuous route you’ve already traversed.
At the end of this cul-de-sac, near a grand manor adorned with anachronistic Ionic columns, the route transforms into a rocky path, with the crunch of stones underfoot at every step.
The still steep slope leads into a shaded forest, dominated by beeches, ashes, and chestnuts, forming a natural canopy where silence reigns supreme. Scattered chairs serve as subtle reminders of the physical challenge ahead.
When the forest finally clears, the path emerges at a vast, weathered black wooden farm, majestic in its age, standing as a silent witness to the passage of time.
Beyond the farm, the path continues upward, transitioning from dirt to asphalt, signaling a subtle change in the landscape as it prepares you for the next stage.
Then, towering above you appears a large building, part of the Kühlewil care complex.
This road leads on, unperturbed, to the main building. In the summer of 1892, the city of Bern opened a municipal hospice on the Kühlewil estate, located about ten kilometers from Bern. Today, 150 elderly people live in this retirement and care home, sheltered from the bustle of the city, though not from the history that permeates every stone of this place.
The route used to cross directly over the road leading to the village of Kühlewil, but in recent years, it has been rerouted. Be sure not to miss the turn located across from the rest home, which now directs you toward Englisberg.
The path stretches ahead, wide and welcoming, winding through green meadows and golden cornfields. A bench, perhaps placed for the home’s residents wishing to enjoy the peace of nature, subtly invites you to rest and contemplate.
In the distance, still clearly visible on the horizon, Ostermundigen, a suburb of Bern, lingers like a silhouette refusing to fade away.
Although the incline is moderate, it’s still noticeable, drawing you deeper into the heart of the countryside, where the rolling hills create a bucolic landscape. Looking up, the village of Englisberg soon appears, perched above, its calm and serenity dominating the surroundings
The path continues its ascent, leading you through a land where cows graze peacefully, and vast grassy expanses stretch to the horizon. Rare cultivated fields give way to a nearly untamed wilderness. .
The Via Jacobi does not enter the village of Englisberg but merely brushes against it, like a subtle caress, respecting the tranquility of the place without disturbing its established order.
Nearby, a charming wooden house catches the eye, its irresistible allure drawing your attention. The view of the village reveals a harmonious blend of old Bernese homes, steeped in centuries of tradition, and more recent constructions, likely housing some of the staff from the care home.
From the village, a steep path climbs through soft grass, blending into the dense Englisbergwald Forest.
Another bench awaits here, at the edge of the forest, offering a perfect spot to pause and admire the view, where Ostermundigen and the vast Bernese plain stretch as far as the eye can see, in a harmonious blend of shades and hues that evoke the serenity of the landscape.
The forest seems to extend infinitely, vast and calming, a green sea where the trees reign supreme. The path winds joyfully beneath the benevolent shadow of the plump-trunked beeches, delicate maples, and tall, stately spruces—nature’s silent guardians. Each step on this path feels like a communion with nature, with the whisper of leaves touched by the wind, a shared breath with the towering green giants.
Through a sudden clearing, the forest reveals the charming village of Kühlwil nestled below, like a jewel in its green setting. This pastoral scene, discovered by chance, invites contemplation, a moment suspended in time.
But the path, true to its nature, doesn’t linger. It slips once more beneath the gentle, protective canopy of trees, whose tops seem to brush the sky. In this soothing dimness, every beam of light breaking through the leaves becomes a poem, every rustling of leaves a melody.
Further on, the natural order is slightly disrupted: the forest rangers, acting as the wise stewards of this place, have taken their due. Stacks of logs, neatly arranged, testify to the sustainable harvesting of this precious resource. Life in the forest continues, governed by an ancient cycle, where humanity’s hand intervenes with respect and restraint.
The path continues, changing direction, and gradually, the forest gives way to a more open horizon. The air becomes fresher, freer, like a new breath.
Now, a paved road winds gently through a vast landscape where fields of oats sway in the light breeze like a sea of gold in summer.
The road skirts the edge of the forest, and in the distance, the horizon unfolds majestically. The Bernese and Fribourg Pre-Alps stand tall like immutable sentinels, their silhouettes etched against the sky, offering a spectacle of simple yet striking grandeur.
But these fields are not solely reserved for grains: potatoes also find a place here, rooted in this generous soil, nourished by the seasons, with each furrow telling a story of toil and patience.
Finally, the road arrives at Undere Wald, a small farming hamlet where massive farms stand, testifying to the vast agricultural lands that surround them. These robust buildings, with their imposing roofs, seem to blend with the landscape, in harmony with the surrounding nature.
However, this hamlet is not solely about rusticity. A few elegant patrician homes are scattered here, their discreet elegance contrasting with the rugged farmhouses. One might wonder whether they still belong to the farmers or have already turned toward more urban, more worldly horizons.
But the Via Jacobi doesn’t dwell on the opulence or mysteries of this place. It quickly resumes its course, leaving the road behind to plunge once again into the cool, reassuring shadow of the forest. Here lies the Chüliwildwald Forest, where the path seems to vanish, blending into the thick woods, as if inviting the traveler to continue their journey between shadow and light.
This forest, unlike the one before, has a more modest character. At the threshold of the woods, the trees are still young and frail, their trunks mere sketches of what they will become. A narrow trail winds discreetly among sparse bushes, the glossy-leaved privet, the bright-berried dogwood, and hornbeam, forming a soft, protective hedge. All of this is watched over by young spruces, sentinels in the making, standing with juvenile dignity.
However, as you progress deeper into the woods, the trees grow taller, increasing in majesty as if the forest itself were putting on a show.
The path widens, becoming a more generous track. The now-adult spruces stand tall and proud, tightly packed like poles reaching for the sky, their crowns stretching toward the heavens.
Yet, even outside of rainy periods, the trail can become tricky to navigate. At times, it becomes bogged down, transforming into a test of mud and detours, the result of the ruts left by forestry tractors. Further along, the trail makes a sharp turn, changing direction towards Allmid and Riggisberg, marking the transition into a new phase of the journey.
Section 4: Between forest and meadows in the Bernese countryside
Overview of the route’s challenges: This route presents no significant challenges.
The path delves into a dense forest, where majestic spruce trees form a verdant canopy overhead. You find yourself enveloped by the towering green walls of these giant trees, their deep green foliage rising steeply towards the top of a nearby hill.
Beyond this, the Chüliwildwald Forest reveals a striking transformation. Here, a broad dirt path stretches out with a newfound ease, winding through a more open forest where the trees are spaced apart, allowing sunlight to generously filter through.
As you continue, the path narrows again, threading its way between tightly-packed trees. The spruces, standing like orderly columns, evoke the solemnity and severity of a natural temple.
However, this intimate forest atmosphere is brief. The path soon widens, ascending once more, but this time with a gentler slope, as if caressing the hillside.
Soon, the trail emerges from the shadow of the trees to reveal sunlit clearings. Signposts direct you to picturesque hamlets scattered amidst agricultural lands. Beyond the spruce barrier, the majestic Bernese Alps come into view, their peaks brushing 4,000 meters, like sleeping giants under a crystalline sky.
A wide dirt road then descends gently along the residual hedgerows of the forest, leading you into a landscape of vast meadows interspersed with isolated farms, each like an oasis lost in the heart of the world.
The path guides you to the Allmid area, where, despite the nearly 900-meter altitude, you find yourself amidst low mountain terrain typical of Alpine farming, likely benefiting from substantial subsidies.
The expansive meadows stretch before you, dotted with scattered farms that seem to fade into the horizon. Further down, the slope steepens, and the dirt road continues its descent along the spruce hedge, opening onto the open countryside. In the distance, the low mountains of the Bernese Pre-Alps emerge on the horizon.
Suddenly, as the road curves, your gaze meets the majestic Bernese peaks: the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau, with the Finsteraarhorn as the crowning glory. Standing at 4,274 meters, the Finsteraarhorn, the highest peak of the Bernese Alps, rises like a slender pyramid towards the sky, dominating the landscape with unparalleled majesty and beauty.
The dirt road winds gracefully through the vast, open countryside. Here, fields of gently waving cereals and clusters of maize stretch as far as the eye can see, like carpets of gold and green blending harmoniously into the rural landscape.
At the bottom of the descent, the dirt road enters the hamlet of Obermuhlern.
This village, like many others scattered across the region, is a living museum of Bernese farmhouses. The farmhouses, majestic in their simplicity, stand out with their gently sloping roofs covered in brown or red tiles. These roofs, designed to bear the heavy weight of winter snow, extend far beyond the walls, forming deep eaves that offer shade in summer and protection from the elements in winter. The wooden facades, adorned with exposed beams, create elegant and simple geometric patterns. Stained or painted in warm hues ranging from deep brown to earthy red, they contrast beautifully with the window and door frames, often embellished with delicate carvings or traditional paintings. The small, numerous windows are arranged in neat rows, housing colorful geraniums and framed by painted wooden shutters, sometimes decorated with floral or heart motifs. Behind each house stands a barn, often integrated under the same roof—an ingenious arrangement that keeps hay and animals close during the winter months. All of this composes a majestic, timeless scene, a true ode to rural life.
In Obermuhlern, the hamlet perched high up, you are only twenty minutes away from Niedermuhlern, the lower village.
At the edge of the hamlet stands a relic of times past, an indeterminate structure between a farmhouse and a barn, nestled under centuries-old lime trees. It is a sight embedded in the landscape, a delight for the eyes and the soul.
The Via Jacobi leaves the village, heading onto a road.
In this region, many hamlets are dead-ends, with no direct roads linking here the two villages. The Via Jacobi quickly abandons the paved road and returns to a dirt path, gently climbing a hill. There, an almost dreamlike vision unfolds: the majestic Bernese peaks rise above the hill, like three snow-capped breasts, a spectacular apparition straight out of a dream.
From the top of the hill, the dirt road begins a gentle descent towards Niedermuhlern, traversing the bare countryside where meadows stretch as far as the eye can see. This is a land where cows reign supreme, and the few cultivated fields seem primarily dedicated to meeting their demanding needs.
Lower down, the Via Jacobi leaves the dirt road to make a sharp turn, weaving its way through the meadows.
It then transforms into a winding path, descending steeply, marking the divide between brown earth and green grass, snaking through the meadows and cultivated fields.
This path finally leads to Niedermuhlern, where the asphalt road takes over once again.
Here, you discover a true village, more than just a hamlet, though it lacks significant social infrastructure. The architecture becomes more varied: alongside the traditional farmhouses stand more conventional homes, made of stone, that also borrow from the local farmhouse style, creating a homogenous yet diverse ensemble.
The road crosses a relatively large village in the plain.
As you leave the village, the road once again begins to wind along a wide dirt path, gently and steadily climbing towards the forest, like an invitation to explore new horizons.
Section 5: A breathtaking panorama of the snow-covered Bernese giants
Overview of the route’s challenges: A winding path, often with steep climbs.
At the top of the ascent, the trail winds through the quiet hamlets of Riederweid and Unteres Rattenholz, places barely touched by modernity, revealing their tranquil charm nestled in preserved nature. These villages, untouched by time, offer a serene escape into an unspoiled landscape.
The trail, still climbing, enters the magnificent Rattenholz Forest, where towering spruce trees dominate the scenery. More subtle but equally present are the beech and maple trees, adding diversity to the forest. This ancient woodland seems to whisper an age-old melody, a soothing song that accompanies travelers on their journey.
At the peak of this ascent, the path reaches the spot known as Buechweid, still under the protective shade of the trees. The forest hums here, as if singing a quiet tune of welcome.
A sign informs hikers of a local circular trail called Musse: um, a 5.3 km loop starting in Gschneit. This path not only offers beautiful scenery but also suggests exercises to release tension, calm breathing, and sharpen one’s awareness of the surroundings.
Emerging from the forest, a gently sloping paved road leads down into the countryside, offering a mesmerizing view of the snow-capped Bernese Alps towering majestically on the horizon.
Soon, the road reaches Gschneit, a small agricultural hamlet scattered with a few farms nestled beneath fruit trees. This region, favored by hikers and lovers of the nearby Bernese Alps, has a restaurant to welcome visitors seeking stunning views, rest, and comfort.
This region, favored by hikers and lovers of the nearby Bernese Alps, has a restaurant to welcome visitors seeking stunning views, rest, and comfort.
The road continues its picturesque journey through this idyllic landscape, eventually arriving at Leueberg, a popular stop where the parking lot is often filled with cars heading to the Tavel Memorial (Tavelgedenkestätte), a site cherished by both history and landscape enthusiasts.
At Leueberg, you’re now just an hour away from Rüeggisberg, the final destination of this scenic journey.
The slope leading to the Tavel Memorial is steep, challenging visitors with its incline, but the effort is worth it. Hikers eagerly press on to the summit, driven by the promise of an unparalleled view.
At the top, the panorama unfolds in all its glory, with sweeping views across Thun, Lake Brienz, and the majestic snow-capped Bernese Alps. To fully appreciate the grandeur of the scene, a powerful zoom lens or a good pair of binoculars is highly recommended.
This place is dedicated to the renowned Bernese writer Rudolf von Tavel (1866-1934), a pioneer in writing local history and literature in the Bernese dialect. He captured the landscape of his homeland in poetic words, as in his famous quote:« Ds Bärnerland isch i dr Morgestilli gläge mit aller syr währschafte, brave Schönheit. » (“The Bernese landscape blooms in the morning stillness, in all its authentic, solid beauty.”) Tavel, a successful writer and journalist who wrote in both Swiss dialect and High German, was honored by a Bernese student association, which erected this memorial on Leuenberg in 1939. They chose this site because of Tavel’s description of it as the most beautiful place in the Bernese Highlands. The memorial is a stone from his family’s garden, encircled by a low wall.
Next to this commemorative stone, a bronze medallion features a portrait of the poet, his name, and his life dates, celebrating his literary legacy and his deep connection to the land.
From the memorial, a path gently winds through meadows, skirting the edge of the forest in a peaceful clearing. This trail, with a soft descent, follows the natural contours of the landscape.
Then, with quiet determination, the path climbs another hill, hesitating between scattered clumps of grass and coarse gravel, and eventually entering a wooded area where the vibrant greenery explodes in the shrubs and bushes, a verdant promise of nature’s vitality.
At this point, the Via Jacobi and the Musse : um circuit diverge, each following its own path like rivers separating towards different horizons.
The Via Jacobi continues its ascent on a narrow path, cutting through the undergrowth that foreshadows the coming forest.
The trail, scattered with steep sections, rises between tall, slender trees that stretch skyward like upraised wands.
At this point, you’ve reached the summit of the stage, nearly 1000 meters above sea level. The trail now descends gently through the forest, offering a pleasant stroll on a wide path. The crisp mountain air fills your lungs, bringing a sense of invigorating freshness and absolute freedom.
Section 6: Rüeggisberg, another open-air museum of the Canton of Bern
Overview of the route’s challenges: This route is without significant difficulty, featuring gentle slopes, except for the descent into Mattwil.
As the sign by the path indicates, you are walking through the vast forest of Tannwald. With only 45 minutes left to reach Rüeggisberg, your destination for the day draws near.
The trail meanders through the heart of the woods, its gentle undulation making the slope almost imperceptible. This forest, while peaceful, does not stand out in magnificence compared to others you’ve crossed on your journey. Its continuity may seem less remarkable, with sparse underbrush and paths that can sometimes become muddy, even in the absence of rain.
However, let’s not allow this restraint to dictate your perception. There are moments of true beauty, nestled beneath the majestic spruces, offering a visual pause from the otherwise monotonous route.
Further on, as the forest transforms once again into a stunning landscape, the paths multiply, reflecting the richness of routes weaving through this region, blessed by nature. Signposts, invaluable in their clarity, help you navigate through this forested labyrinth. A final sign at a path intersection points you in the direction of Rüeggisberg, following the Via Jacobi 4.
The path continues through the woods before emerging into the open, revealing the surrounding countryside and fields. A steep descent leads you through meadows and sparse crops, gradually unveiling the imposing silhouettes of the farms of Mattwil, harmoniously scattered in the surrounding nature.
The Via Jacobi seamlessly merges with the regional road, winding through the picturesque landscapes of the Canton of Bern. The farms lining this route are bastions of vitality and prosperity, each one standing proudly in all its splendor—a vibrant sample of happiness and joy that defies imagination and remains unmatched by the present era. It is hard to fathom how the ancestors of this region managed to construct such masterpieces with what we now consider rudimentary tools.
Here, at the crossroads of two major routes, the Via Jacobi, coming from Luzern and Bern on one hand, and from Central Switzerland and Interlaken on the other, unite to form a single path towards Geneva.
From this point, the Via Jacobi follows the regional road for a short distance before gently veering off onto a side path.
This path, initially rocky, becomes progressively softer as it winds through meadows and the occasional cultivated fields, often occupied by rows of maize swaying in the breeze.
At the end of this passage, the trail leads into newer housing developments situated below the village.
Shortly after, a narrow, winding road climbs towards the village, with its church steeple emerging in the distance like a delicate beacon.
The village unfolds before your eyes, a succession of architectural marvels lined along the road. These are not simply farmhouses—though some may have agricultural roots—but rather a bourgeois settlement with multi-story chalets, adorned with flowers arranged in exquisite taste. Each house is a work of art in its own right, a display of refinement and elegance.
At the end of this exceptional village stands the modest temple, marking the conclusion of this open-air gallery of art.
Accommodation on Via Jacobi
- Hotel Maygut, Sewftigenstrasse 370, Wabern; 031 961 39 81: Hotel, dinner, breakfast
- Hotel Löwen, Bernstrasse 2, Zinmmerwald; 031 819 18 72: Hotel, dinner, breakfast
- Restaurant Bütschlegg, Oberbütscel; 031 809 03 24; Gîte, dinner, breakfast
- Andi et Doris Steller, Dorfstasse 12, Rüeggisberg; 031 809 18 22/079 718 25 27; Gîte, breakfast
- Elisabeth et Jürg Wilen, Unter der Eichen 6, Rüeggisberg; 031 331 67 22; Gîte, breakfast
- Elsbeth et Alfred Buri-Berger, Haslistrasse 16, Rüeggisberg; 031 809 08 30; Gîte, breakfast
- Cottage Holiday Stöckli, Dorfstrasse 22, Rüeggisberg; 031 809 40 80; Gîte, breakfast
- Bettina Zwahlen, Bodmattweg 7, Rüeggisberg; 078 683 92 50; Gîte, breakfast
- Gasthaus Bären, Rüeggisberg; 031 808 03 05; Hotel, dinner, breakfast
Here, the situation is quite precarious before reaching Rüeggisberg. There are only three possible accommodations, all located 1 km away from the Via Jacobi. It’s advisable to inquire about their locations with the owners. Therefore, at first glance, you will need to tackle this long stage before finding a place to spend the night in Rüeggisberg. It is imperative to book your accommodation at all costs, as it is rare to find lodging further along the route.